Month by month

The allotment in July

The month the plot stops asking and starts giving, faster than you can keep up with. Picking becomes the main job, and the onions come out to dry.

A British allotment in July: runner beans climbing a wigwam, courgette plants sprawling over a bed, onions lifted and laid out on a rack to dry in the sun.
July in short

Picking is now the job. Go every other day for courgettes and beans, because two days late is a marrow and a stringy pod. Lift the onions once the tops bend over and dry them properly. Sow the last French beans, and keep the salad succession going for autumn.

What to sow in July

The window is closing but not shut. Everything here still has time to crop, and some of it is the best sowing of the year.

CropWhereDepthSpacingReady
Chard and perpetual spinachDirect2cmThin to 25cmAutumn, and again next April
French beansDirect, first half of July5cm15cm apartLate September
BeetrootDirect2cm10cm apartOctober
CarrotsDirect under fleece1cmThin to 5cmOctober to November
TurnipsDirect2cmThin to 12cmSeptember
Salad leavesDirect, in some shade1cmThin to 10cmFive weeks
Spring onionsDirect1cmThin to 2cmOctober
Oriental leaves and pak choiDirect, from late July1cmThin to 20cmSeptember to November

Oriental leaves sown before July bolt almost immediately. Sown from late July they are one of the most reliable autumn crops there is.

What to plant out in July

WhatWhenSpacingWorth knowing
LeeksUp to the end of July15cm apartLater plantings give smaller leeks, but they still stand all winter
KaleEarly July at the latest45cm apartFirm hard and net the same day
Winter cabbage and savoyEarly July45cm apartGoes into the ground the first earlies came out of
Purple sprouting broccoliOnly if not done in June60cm apartGetting late. It will crop, but later and lighter

What you will be picking

The list is long and it gets longer every week. This is where the glut starts.

CropHow often to pickWorth knowing
CourgettesEvery other dayAt 15cm they are a courgette. At 30cm they are a marrow nobody wants
Runner and French beansEvery two or three daysPicking hard keeps the plant flowering. Let pods swell and it stops
PeasEvery other dayThe season is short. Clear the plants when they finish and sow something else
Second early potatoesAs neededLift a plant at a time rather than the whole row
OnionsOnce the tops bend overDo not bend the tops over yourself. Let them do it
GarlicWhen the lower leaves yellowLift before the bulb splits its skin, usually early to mid July
Beetroot and carrotsAs neededPull alternate roots and let the rest size up
Currants and raspberriesEvery few daysNet them properly or you get nothing

The jobs that matter this month

Lifted onions laid out to dry on a slatted wooden rack outside an allotment shed, tops still attached and folded over, skins beginning to go papery.

Getting the onions out and dried

Onions tell you when they are ready. The tops soften at the neck and fold over on their own, usually across a week or two in mid to late July. Wait for that. Bending them over yourself is old advice and it shortens how long they keep, because it seals the neck before the bulb has finished.

Ease them up with a fork so the roots break, then leave them on the surface for a few days if the weather is dry. After that they need somewhere airy and under cover: a bench in the shed, a rack, a pallet on bricks, anything that gets air all round them.

Two to three weeks of drying is what decides whether they keep until March or go soft in November. The neck should be papery and tight, and the skin should rustle. A thick soft neck means that one gets used first, because it will not store.

Once dry, cut the tops back to about 3cm, or plait them if the leaves are still flexible, and hang them somewhere cool and dry. Check the whole lot once a month and pull out anything soft before it takes its neighbours with it.

What not to bother with in July

Do not sow more courgettes or runner beans. Whatever you have is already producing more than you can eat, and anything sown now arrives at exactly the wrong moment.

Do not leave beds empty when the peas and broad beans come out. Chard, beetroot, salad, turnips and oriental leaves all still have time, and an empty July bed grows nothing but fat hen.

Do not water the potatoes. Once the foliage has closed over, the crop is made and watering mostly encourages blight in a humid month.

Questions that come up

The four asked most in July.

My courgettes have turned into marrows. What now?

Grate them, squeeze the water out and freeze in 250g bags for cooking. Do not try to freeze slices, they go to mush. Then pick every other day from now on, because a plant left with a marrow on it slows down and stops making new fruit.

When exactly do I lift garlic?

When the bottom two or three leaves have gone yellow and the rest are still green, usually early to mid July. Leave it much later and the bulb splits its wrapper in the ground and will not store.

My tomatoes have brown patches on the leaves and stems. Is it blight?

Probably, in a warm wet July. Outdoors there is no cure. Remove and bin affected foliage, never compost it, and pick everything that has any colour immediately to ripen indoors.

Should I stop the runner beans at the top of the canes?

Yes, pinch out the growing tip when they reach the top. It stops them making a tangle above your head where you cannot reach the pods, and pushes growth into side shoots lower down.

A nudge in May, when the glut is actually decided.

Sowing in three small batches instead of one large one. One email a month, at the point it helps.

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Where to go next

Last month

First earlies out, and the winter brassicas going in behind them.

Next month

Peak glut, and the small sowing that decides next spring.

Too much of everything

What to do with it, and how to stop it happening next year.